The Modern Café -- Recipe, Bios and More!
Fleur de Sel, |
Coconut Tapioca |
Smoked Salmon Open-Faced |
An Excerpt from the Introduction
In my years in the industry I have seen, lived, and been part of much of the recent evolution of food in the United States. I am not referring to trends, which seem to come and go at an increasingly fast rate, but to the increased appreciation that the consumer has developed for good, accessible, moderately inexpensive food. I have also realized that even though consumers have very high expectations, they would like their food promptly expedited so they can get on with their lives. You don't always have the time (or the means) for a Michelin three-star experience. Enter The Modern Café.
What defines a café? A café can offer a variety of items, such as:
- BREAKFAST ITEMS (VIENNOISERIE)
- ARTISAN BREADS
- PASTRY ITEMS (CAKES OR ENTREMETS AND INDIVIDUAL DESSERTS)
- SAVORY ITEMS
- CONFECTIONS AND CHOCOLATES
- PACKAGED SELF-STABLE FOODS
- ICE CREAM AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS
- BEVERAGES
Not all cafés will offer all of the above-mentioned items, but in order to be financially healthy, there should be at least a combination of two or three of them. This book contains all of them. All of the products included are special, meaning that they are not strictly traditional; they are also refined and require precise execution, care for technique, and quality of ingredients. The craft of the baker, pastry chef, and chef is evident in them, and they all have elements that make them stand out. Each and every finished product has an important reason for being included. I believe that this book will offer many ideas, techniques, and recipes, and that most importantly, it will be inspirational.
In order to operate a successful café, one must be a master of many trades and have a profound understanding of quality, refinement, and business sense. Customers have become more sophisticated, and in order to meet their needs, there are many more well-trained bakers, pastry chefs, and chefs than there were in the past decade. Culinary and pastry schools have become very popular, and though this mini career explosion is great, it also means that there is a lot of talent out there. It keeps getting harder and harder to be financially successful and keep up with the competition. One of the key aspects in the big picture of a café's financial success is the way in which the product is sold, from how it should be displayed to how it is taken away. This is also included in the book, not as a chapter in itself, but in sidebars throughout the different chapters.
While there is an emphasis on technique and execution, this book is not going to focus on basic educational information. It is geared toward professionals, not students. For example, scientific explanations of the functions of ingredients, definitions of basic equipment, and the history of each item will not be covered. In certain cases when it is necessary to talk about a specific ingredient or a piece of equipment like the immersion thermocirculator, there will be sidebars to provide explanation....
...My expectation for this book is for it to be a pioneer in the realm of modern café food. There are many books available that are very specific to the different categories I will include, but this is the only book where it all comes together seamlessly.
--Francdisco J. Migoya
Copyright © 2009 by Francisco J. Migoya and The Culinary Institute of America. Reprinted from The Modern Café with permission of John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
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Petite Beurre Cookie & Salted Caramel Ice Cream Sandwich |
Cream of Green Asparagus with Morels and Fromage Blanc |
French Macarons |
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A professional guide to every aspect of the launch and management of a modern, upscale café. The Modern Café is the first comprehensive, must-have reference for the aspiring restaurateur or café owner who wants to make sure he gets every detail right. This exquisitely illustrated volume is packed with professional guidance and master recipes for breakfast pastries, artisanal sandwiches, truffles and treats, and much more. Additionally, an entire chapter is devoted to the retail shelf, more...
About the Authors:
Francisco J. Migoya is an assistant professor at The Culinary Institute of America, teaching the Café Operations class for the Baking and Pastry Arts program. He is also in charge of the Apple Pie Bakery Café, the CIA's busiest public restaurant operation. Before joining the CIA, he was executive pastry chef at Thomas Keller's The French Laundry, Bouchon Bakery, and Bouchon Bistro. Learn more about The Modern Café at www.thequenelle.com.
The Culinary Institute of America, founded in 1946, is the world's premier culinary college. Courses are offered at the college's main campus in Hyde Park, New York, and at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, in St. Helena, California.
ELDERFLOWER GANACHE POPS
Yield: 2.16 kg/4 Ib 12.19 oz (about 36 pc)
ELDERFLOWER GANACHE:
Sugar/300 g/10.58 oz/13.64%
Heavy Cream/480 g/1 lb 9.6 oz/21.82%
Dark Chocolate (60% Coins)/1 kg/2 lb 3.2 oz/45.45%
Elderflower Liqueur (St-Germain)/120 g/4.23 oz/5.45%
Butter, soft/300 g/10.58 oz/13.64%
Dark Chocolate (64%), tempered/as needed/as needed
White Chocolate, tempered/as needed/as needed
Crystallized lilac petals [www.markethalfoods.com]/36/36
1. Line 36 PVC tubes 7.5 cm long by 2.5 cm diameter/3 by 1 in with acetate. Place them in a standing position on a flat sheet pan lined with a nonstick rubber mat.
2. Make a caramel with the sugar and the cream (see below), and then bring it to a boil. Pour the liquid over the chocolate in a bowl and stir to dissolve the chocolate. Allow the mixture to cool to 27°C/81°F. Stir in the elderflower liqueur and the butter.
3. Pour the ganache into a piping bag. Pipe the ganache into the prepared tubes and even out the top with an offset spatula.
4. Let the ganache set at room temperature. Once it is set, push a lollipop stick halfway into each tube.
5. Refrigerate the ganache for 2 hours.
6. Remove the ganache from the PVC tubes and take off the acetate.
7. Dip the ganache into tempered dark chocolate using the lollipop stick, letting the excess drip off the top.
8. Once the chocolate sets, garnish with a drizzle of white chocolate and a crystallized lilac petal. Reserve in a cool dry place in an airtight container. Discard after three weeks.
Copyright © 2009 by Francisco J. Migoya and The Culinary Institute of America. Reprinted from The Modern Café with permission of John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Salted Caramel
Yield: 400 g/14.11 oz
Sugar/300 g/10.58 oz/13.64%
Glucose syrup/300 g /10.58 oz/13.64%
Heavy Cream/480 g/1 lb 9.6 oz/21.82%
Butter/1 kg/2 lb 3.2 oz/45.45%
Salt/120 g/4.23 oz/5.45%
Butter, soft/300 g/10.58 oz/13.64%
1. In a 2 qt sauce pot, combine the sugar with enough water to obtain a “wet sand” texture (about one-quarter of the weight of the sugar), using your hands. Pour in the glucose. Clean the sides of the pot so that there are no sugar crystals on it by using a clean pastry brush dipped in water. Cook over high heat.
2. While the sugar cooks, bring the cream, butter, and salt to a simmer in a small sauce pot.
3. Once the sugar reaches a dark amber color (170°C/338°F), slowly whisk in the hot cream and butter mixture.
4. Pour the caramel into an adequately sized stainless-steel container and cool at room temperature. Once cool, transfer to an airtight container and reserve in a cool, dry place. The caramel will keep indefinitey if stored in this way.
Copyright © 2009 by Francisco J. Migoya and The Culinary Institute of America. Reprinted from The Modern Café with permission of John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
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